A road that leads to the sea (yes, listen to the song’s tune) is changing Puerto Escondido; it is not the only factor, but this place on the Mexican Pacific, the most populated on the Oaxacan coast, is undergoing a renovation in architectural design and gastronomy. In the coming months it will have a very different face.
It took more than 15 years of construction and, finally, in February of this year 2024, the Barranca Larga-Ventanilla highway opened, which connects the state capital with Puerto Escondido, it has been called “Oaxaca’s window to the world.” From one point to another it takes 2.5 hours, before, between the mountains with difficult orography, narrow and dangerous curves, almost 7 hours.
It is a road that has had to overcome earthquakes, floods, three presidential terms, but it is finally finished. Tourism in Oaxaca, which is currently experiencing a splendor, will no longer think twice about whether to go to the beaches or not. Oaxacans can now go to the beach on the weekend.
The possibility of arriving in Puerto without using a plane has also led to a boom in construction, houses and boutique hotels, especially in the Punta Zicatela and Barra areas, the areas where there is a lot of construction activity.
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According to María Prieto, who leads Puerto por María, a boutique agency with more than 50 properties (winners of architectural competitions) in this area, the houses that are being built are being planned to take care of the environmental footprint, “it became fashionable to build like this and I think it’s incredible.”
Constructions such as Fundación Casa Wabi, Casa TO or Casona Sforza are examples of this type of architecture made with natural elements, full of local vegetation and that use inputs that try to pollute as little as possible.
Located in La Punta Zicatela, at the southern tip of Puerto Escondido, Casa TO is a boutique hotel that offers a contemplative hospitality experience with a vision of environmental awareness and social responsibility. Opened in November 2022, it was built by Ludwig Godefroy, a French architect based in Mexico.
Staying here is like entering a temple of timeless design; the most striking feature is its pool with circular concrete arches through which light, water and some plants filter through; it is a true pleasure to dive in.
With only nine rooms, calm is guaranteed. Just lie down next to the pool, in the lobby or inside the rooms, to relax listening to birds and insects that coo in a meditation towards rest. The beach is a seven-minute walk away.
Another hotel that encourages hedonism is Casona Sforza, located in Barra Santa María Colotepec. Designed by architect Alberto Kalach, it combines comfort and elegance in an environment where nature and design stimulate the senses. The project reflects a commitment to environmental care (it was built respecting the terrain’s orography), the revaluation of roots and the development of the local community.
The structure is made of vaults, there are 11 suites (for adults only), the rooms downstairs have a small pool and the rooms upstairs have a balcony with a hammock to lie down and enjoy the sound of the ocean waves. Here, there is no shortage of pleasure. The pool resembles an oasis in the middle of the desert and invites the contemplation of garrobos, dragonflies and birds that cross a clear sky that we would like to see in Mexico City.
Casa Wabi
They have a small spa and in the restaurant and bar they offer small concerts on weekend nights. The beach is just a few steps away. Casa Wabi is a non-profit civil association that encourages an exchange between contemporary art and local communities. There are only three locations: Puerto Escondido, Mexico City and Tokyo. It was designed by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando and under the initiative of the Mexican artist Bosco Sodi and this 2024 it turns 10 years old.
Starred places in Puerto Escondido
The arrival of the Michelin Guide to Mexico set its sights on Puerto Escondido, a destination that was not distinguished by its gastronomic offer, much less by local cuisine. Places like Almoraduz, a project by chefs Quetzalcoatl Zurita and Shalxaly Macías, earned to be among its recommendations and, it is true, eating there is pure pleasure.
Almoraduz is a restaurant that honors the food of Nopala, inspired by the food of the Isthmus and the Central Valley of Oaxaca, to offer dishes that fuse tradition and modernity. Its 10-course tasting menu is a sample of a demanding, creative cuisine full of flavors. Although it changes according to the season of the year, you can find tetelas, moles, catch of the day, tostaditas, sopes, pairings with mezcal, wine and even sake, as chef Zurita likes to integrate hints of other cuisines that he has explored.
La Bóveda, a restaurant inside Casona Sforza, is also another place to explore. You don’t need to be a guest to enter and enjoy a menu that combines Mexican food with Argentine food.
Tiraditos, catch of the day, oven-baked pizza, the best octopus tostada you may have ever tried… chefs Vanessa Franco and Andrés Trujillo develop a frank cooking experience, where local products from the land and sea are the protagonists.
Here you can appreciate the creative cocktails with mezcal, and the view from the restaurant towards the pool and a small desert that merges with the sea. Ending a day here is the perfect definition of living in paradise.
Places to eat in Puerto Escondido:
Almoraduz
IG: @almoraduzpuerto
Tasting menu, $2,300; a la carte cost, more than $500
Dinner Mon, Tue, Thu–Sun 4:00 p.m.–11:00 p.m.
Benito Juárez 12, Rinconada, Puerto Escondido, Oax.
La Bóveda
IG: @laboveda.casonasforza
Average cost: $1,000
Daily 10:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m.
La barra Santa María Colotepec, 70934 Puerto Escondido, Oax.
Puerto Escondido a century later
The history of Puerto Escondido is relatively new. It began to be populated in the 1930s, but it was not until 1960 that they had a drinking water system and the now old road to Oaxaca, something essential to be able to grow in inhabitants, services and food.
In the 1990s it began to shine as a tourist destination. Oscar Cadena promoted it in his “Video Soup,” and you could see wrestling or television stars, such as Adal Ramones, strolling along the cobblestones, where the best food was Italian, due to the migration from the European country. Playa Carrizalillo was almost virgin and could only be reached by going down a stone slope. Zicatela was only a place for surfers.
Well, the surfers are still there, the waves of Zicatela are still enviable for this activity, but up high, in the area called La Punta and La Barra, sustainable architecture and good gastronomy are the new inhabitants, those who are giving a new face to this Port that is increasingly showing itself to the world.
Beaches to visit in Puerto Escondido:
Mazunte, Zipolite, Ventanilla, Puerto Ángel, Carrizalillo.
Source: chilango
